Tools needed:
Jack & Jack-stands
Ratchet
10, 14, 17mm sockets
14, 17mm wrench (or vise-grips, or crescent wrench)
Big Ass C-Clamp (A heavy duty one with at least 5” of span)
Box cutter (or the like)
2-3 Tooth Puller (rent is for free from Autozone)

Tools Recommended:
Breaker bar
Propane Torch
Reciprocating Saw (Buy one!)

Front:
1. Raise the car, support it securely on jack stands, and remove the front wheels.

2. Remove the lower control arms. There are 5 bolts that hold the control arms in place. 2 on the rear busing, one in the front bushing, one in the sway bar link, and one holding the ball joint to the hub (you must completely remove the ball joint screw, not jut loosen it). After these bolts are removed, the control arm should slide right out.

3. Shave the rubber off of the rear bushing exposing the metal sleeve. A reciprocating saw makes quick work of this. Use the box cutter to clean it up and cut the rubber from behind the sleeve (so you have room to pry and pull).

4. Pull the bushing off of the arm (Some are able to simply pry the bushing off, but that was not working for me). Use a 3 tooth puller to slide the bushing off. Place a washer on the control arm so the puller head doesn’t wander.

5. Remove the front bushings. This can be done easily with a big C-clamp and tube of some sort (to bush the bushing into). I have included a diagram of the control arm, so you know what size tubing you are going to need. I stole my roommates failed attempts at a potato gun and lopped the end off.

6. Grease and install new bushings. The bushing kit you bought should have included grease. Apply it to the bushing mating surfaces and press them on to the control arm. The front bushing can be pressed easily with your c-clamp (or by hand depending on the bushings) and the rear can be pushed on by hand.

7. Install the control arms. Start with the rear mount, and only thread the bolts about half way so the arm can be maneuvered.Then pry the control arm into the front mount using a screw driver or pry bar and insert the bolt.


Then push the ball joint into the hub. If you can’t push it on by hand, try using a jack (but be careful not to damage the ball joint cover on the bottom).

Now just tighten the bolts and your done!
NOTE: The rear mount bust me tightened under load! That means, put the wheels on and drive up on ramps, then tighten the rear mounts down.

Rear Bushings
1.

DTSS (Rear Steer) Eliminator Bushing Install
1.